aggressive sensitive tart

Sorrel is both delicate and unstoppable. Another perennial green, it comes into its own early—and with pretty much no help from me. During the summer, it grows so fast that I find myself plucking leaves daily and, despairing of ever eating them quickly enough, using them as a mulch.000_0607

But sever this lemony-tasting green from the ground, and in less than a day it will be limp and bedraggled. (That’s why you seldom see it in stores.) Cook it and it turns sludgy and brownish. And don’t even think about freezing it. The main use for sorrel is in salads, and many people are judicious even there because of its tartness; it’s customary to cut it with a milder lettuce.

I like a nice bowlful of sorrel, but you do have to attend to the astringency. I make a simple vinaigrette with vermouth instead of vinegar, and top it with a couple of eggs, both for nutritional heft and a bit or richness. 000_0608

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